A fresh herb platter, Caucasus style: herbs, cheese, bread and how to serve them
In the Caucasus region, a table often starts with a plate of whole fresh herbs, a slab of cheese and warm bread, eaten with the hands before anything else arrives. It is a loved way to begin a meal, and it is also one of the easiest things a host can put out: no cooking, nothing to time, and it makes people reach across the table to each other.
Here is how to build one at home for about six people.
What goes on the platter
The idea is generous bunches of leaves, left whole and eaten by the sprig. Pick three or four, and buy more than feels reasonable.
- Basil. Green or purple. Traditionally eaten fresh, not cooked.
- Cilantro (coriander). Divisive, so see the substitutions below.
- Tarragon. Sweet and slightly anise. Use it in small sprigs.
- Dill. Wispy and bright, good against salty cheese.
- Flat-leaf parsley and mint. Easy to find, and mint cools everything.
- Green onions and radishes. Not herbs, but they belong on the plate for crunch.
Plan on about two bunches of herbs in total for six people, and a handful of radishes and green onions. Wash and dry them well, because wet herbs go limp. Spin them in a salad spinner, or pat them in a clean tea towel.
The cheese
Look for a brined, salty, slightly springy cheese. Many cooks reach for a Georgian-style or Armenian-style brined cheese, which some Canadian shops stock. If you cannot find one, these work well:
- Feta, preferably sold in brine. Rinse it briefly if it tastes very salty.
- A firm halloumi, grilled and served warm.
- Fresh mozzarella, for guests who prefer something milder.
Cut cheese into thick slices or large cubes, about 200 to 300 g for six people as a starter. Serve it at cool room temperature so the flavour opens up.
The bread
Warm, soft bread is half of the experience. A tone-baked style bread such as lavash or a Georgian shoti-style loaf can sometimes be found at bakeries serving the community. If not, use pita, a good flatbread, or a crusty loaf.
To warm it, wrap it in foil and heat at 160 degrees C for 8 to 10 minutes. Wrap warm bread in a clean cloth in a basket to keep it soft. Lavash can be sprinkled lightly with water and warmed for a few minutes to become pliable again.
How to serve and eat it
- Arrange, do not pile. Lay herbs in loose bundles with the stems all pointing the same way. It looks generous and it is easy to grab.
- Put out a bowl of water or a cloth for hands, since this is finger food.
- Show guests the method. Take a piece of bread, a slice of cheese, a sprig or two of herb, and roll or fold. Eat it in a few bites.
- Add salt, if you like. A small dish of flaky salt for the radishes is welcome.
- Offer a drink. Tea, sparkling water or a light white wine are all comfortable with this food.
Walnuts and a bowl of good olives also sit well on the same board, if you want to extend it.
Substitutions and what can go wrong
- Cilantro tastes like soap to some people. Make sure parsley or dill is also on the plate, so no one goes hungry.
- Herbs wilt in a warm room. Keep the platter in the fridge until just before guests sit down, and cover it with a damp paper towel.
- Cheese too salty? Soak it in cold water for 20 minutes, then pat dry.
- Allergies. Check for nut allergies if you add walnuts, and label cheese for guests avoiding dairy.
A host’s note
This works best as the opening act to a longer dinner, but on a summer evening it can be the whole meal, with some tomatoes and cucumber added. Pass it around slowly, and let people talk while they eat.
More dishes from across the world are collected in our Around the World section.