Khachapuri at home: Georgian cheese bread for guests

Khachapuri is a much-loved cheese bread from Georgia, and a boat of warm dough filled with molten cheese and a runny egg is about as welcoming as food gets. It looks dramatic on the table, and it is easier to make at home than most people expect. The bread is simple. The cheese is where you make choices.

This makes 4 individual boat-shaped loaves (the style often called Adjaruli), enough for 4 as a main with a salad or 8 as a shared starter.

The dough

• 3 1/2 cups (about 440 g) all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp instant yeast
• 1 tsp sugar
• 1 1/2 tsp salt
• 1 cup (250 mL) warm milk or water
• 1/2 cup (125 mL) plain yogurt
• 2 tbsp olive oil or melted butter

Mix everything in a large bowl until a shaggy dough forms, then knead for 8 to 10 minutes by hand until smooth and slightly tacky. Cover and let it rise in a warm spot for about 1 to 1.5 hours, until doubled.

The cheese

In Georgia, a briny cheese such as sulguni or imeruli is traditional. Those are not always easy to find in Canada, so here is a home-friendly blend you can make from supermarket cheese:

• 2 cups (about 200 g) grated low-moisture mozzarella
• 1 cup (about 150 g) crumbled feta
• 1/2 cup ricotta or cottage cheese, drained
• 1 egg, lightly beaten

Mix the cheeses with the beaten egg. Taste it. Feta can be salty, so adjust the ratio to your liking. A specialty shop or an Eastern European grocery may carry the traditional cheeses, and it is worth looking if you have one nearby.

Shaping the boats

1. Heat the oven to 230 C with a baking sheet inside, or use parchment on a cold tray.
2. Divide the dough into 4 pieces. Roll each into an oval about 25 cm long.
3. Pile a quarter of the cheese down the centre, leaving a 3 cm border.
4. Roll the long edges toward the middle, then pinch the two ends together to make a boat shape with a raised rim.
5. Brush the dough with beaten egg or milk for shine.

Baking

Bake for 12 to 15 minutes until the crust is deep golden and the cheese is bubbling. Take the loaves out, make a small well in the centre of each cheese pool with a spoon, and crack an egg (or just a yolk) into it. Return to the oven for 2 to 3 minutes, until the white has set but the yolk is still soft.

Finish with a knob of butter on each. Serve immediately.

How to eat it

The traditional way is to tear off a piece of the crust, dip it into the egg and cheese, and stir everything together with the bread. This is a hands-on dish, so put out napkins and tell your guests to dig in.

Egg safety

Soft eggs are a pleasure but carry a small risk. If you are cooking for pregnant guests, young children, older adults or anyone with a weakened immune system, bake the eggs until fully set. Use fresh, refrigerated eggs in all cases. This is general food-safety information, not medical advice.

Host’s notes

• Make the dough ahead. Let it rise overnight in the fridge for better flavour, then bring it to room temperature before shaping.
• Cheese leaks. Pinch the ends firmly. A little leakage onto the tray is normal and is delicious when crisped.
• Pale crust. Preheat the baking sheet and brush the dough well.
• Vegetarian. The recipe is vegetarian as written. Check the cheese label if a guest avoids animal rennet.
• Pair it with a cucumber and tomato salad with herbs, or pickles, to cut through the richness.

Khachapuri is not an elegant dish. Everybody leans in, and the tablecloth takes a few hits. That is exactly why it works for guests. For more dishes from the world’s tables, visit our around the world section, or bring it to a dinner party with friends.